So, 19 days in and I’m writing this post while listening to a symphony of barking and howling dogs outside my window. One of the many fun quirks of living in Samoa! It is quite difficult to find peaceful sleep here in between the packs of barking dogs, Samoan’s singing until all hours and the roosters which would appear to have jet-lag as they crow at all times of the day and night! Another fun quirk of living here is the brilliant concept of pre-paid power or “cash power”. This innovative concept is great, until your power credit runs out at 8pm on a Sunday and there is nowhere open in order to buy more!
There are, however, many more awesome things to make up for these few frustrations. Emily, Charlotte and I were lucky enough to spend a weekend in a rural village, helping out with making the traditional Samoan umu (umu literally means ‘earth oven’). After a lot of grating, scraping, peeling, husking , leaf rubbing and general hard, sweaty work, along with 2 hours cooking time, we finally had ourselves an umu. LOTS of umu. Ours consisted of Taro, breadfruit, pumpkin, pork, mutton, chicken, fish and palesami (coconut cream baked in taro leaves). This is eaten OFTEN and A LOT in Samoa. Actually, everything is eaten a lot in Samoa.
Following this we stayed at Lalomanu beach in traditional beach fales which are basically a wooden platform with no walls, and a palm frond roof. This is one of the best beaches in Upolu but also the one most affected in the 2009 tsunami. It was heartbreaking to hear the families’ stories of their lost loved ones and see the devastating effect of the wave on the once-flourishing coral reefs of the area which are only just now beginning to sprout new growth. This beach also gave us a taste of the incredibly strong and dangerous currents that Samoa unfortunately has, which helped me affirm the need for my assignment here.
This past weekend was spent on Namu’a Island, which really is a tiny piece of tropical paradise, with no electricity, just a row of tiny open fales on the beach. I saw my first sea turtle and a lot of crown of thorns starfish - ouch! The days consisted of snorkelling, general chill-out time, a bonfire, crab-racing with the local kids, stargazing (must be the most stars I have ever seen in my life) and jungle-trekking with some of the local kids which turned into an epic adventure literally ‘off the beaten track’. After 2 hours barefoot trekking through dense jungle I can definitively say I have been were no woman has been before.
Other activities so far have included out-rigger canoe paddling with Samoan and Kiwi boys, fun-running (slash walking!), Island Zumba and a foray into Soccer.
Despite all these adventures I have actually been working, currently finishing up an audit of all the accommodation properties in Samoa, where Emily and I have been sussing out the different pools, beaches and conditions around the island, as well as introducing ourselves to all the staff of the resorts and beginning the plan for the next 6 months. Along the way we have been getting to know our Samoan colleagues, including a 4-day overnight trip with them in our first week of work! This trip also happened to include my lua sefulu tolu birthday which involved papaya cake and happy birthday in Samoan at breakfast, a whole umu roasted pig at lunch, and chocolate cake and Samoan happy birthday again at dinner. It is also apparently Samoan tradition that on ones birthday one is required to get up in front of everyone and perform a traditional dance while everyone sings in Samoan. What else could I do but oblige!?
If you have gotten this far down I applaud you, and thanks for keeping up with my adventure!
Fa soifua!
Erin
